Campaign - R/H Inner Axle Boot Damaged During Assembly
12-015February 28, 2012
Applies To:
2012 Accord L4 - Check the iN VIN status for eligibility
Product Update: Damaged Right Inboard Driveshaft Boot
BACKGROUND
During driveshaft assembly, the assembly equipment damaged the right inboard driveshaft boot.
CUSTOMER NOTIFICATION
All owners of affected vehicles will be sent a notification of this product update.
Do an iN VIN status inquiry to make sure the vehicle is shown as eligible.
In addition, check for a punch mark above the fifth character of the engine compartment VIN. A punch mark in that location means this campaign has already been completed.
Some vehicles affected by this campaign may be in your new or used vehicle inventory. These vehicles must be repaired before they are sold.
To see if a vehicle in inventory is affected by this campaign, do a vehicle status inquiry.
PARTS INFORMATION
Inboard Boot Set (includes: boot, two boot bands circlip, set ring, grease, and spindle nut):
P/N 44017-TA0-A00
Shock Absorber Fork Bolt:
P/N 90121-5M4-010
Self-Locking Nut:
P/N 90215-SBO-003 Cotter Pin:
P/N 94201-30220 Flange Nut:
P/N 90002-S10-000
TOOL INFORMATION
Boot Band Tool: KD-3191 or equivalent (commercially available)
Boot Band Clamp Tool: Kent-Moore J-35910 or equivalent (commercially available)
REQUIRED MATERIALS
Moly 60 Paste: P/N 08734-0001
Super High Temp Urea Grease: P/N 08798-9002
WARRANTY CLAIM INFORMATION
Operation Number: 2191T4
Flat Rate Time: 1.2 hours
Failed Part: P/N 44017-TA0-A00
Defect Code: 5KDO0
Symptom Code: S1400
Skill Level: Repair Technician
REPAIR PROCEDURE
1. Raise and support the vehicle.
2. Remove the right front wheel.
3. Pry up the stake on the spindle nut, then remove the nut.
4. Hold the stabilizer linkjoint pin using a hex wrench, and remove the flange nut. Separate the front stabilizer link from the lower arm.
5. Remove the pinch bolt and the damper fork mounting nut while holding the mounting bolt, then remove the damper fork from the damper and the lower arm.
6. Remove the cotter pin from the knuckle ball joint, then remove the castle nut. Separate the ball joint from the lower arm using a 28 mm ball joint remover and the 14 mm ball joint thread protector.
NOTE:
Make sure not to damage the ball joint boot when installing the remover. Do not force or hammer on the lower arm, or pry between the lower arm and the knuckle. You could damage the ball joint.
7. Pull the knuckle outward, and separate the outboard joint from the front hub using a soft face hammer.
8. Drive the inboard joint off of the intermediate shaft using a drift punch and a hammer. Remove the driveshaft as an assembly.
NOTE:
Do not pull on the driveshaft, or the inboard joint may come apart.
9. Remove the set ring from the intermediate shaft.
10. Remove the boot bands.
^ If the boot band is a welded type, cut the boot band.
^ If the boot band is a double loop type, lift up the band end and push it into the clip.
^ If the boot band is a low profile type, pinch the boot band using commercially available boot band pliers.
11. Make marks on each roller and inboard joint to identify the locations of the rollers to the grooves in the inboard joint.
NOTE:
Do not engrave or scribe any marks on the rolling surface.
12. Remove the inboard joint and place it on a clean shop towel. Be careful not to drop the rollers when separating them from the inboard joint.
13. Make marks on the spider that match the marks on the rollers, then remove the rollers.
NOTE:
Do not engrave or scribe any marks on the rolling surface.
14. Remove the circlip.
15. Make marks on the spider and the driveshaft to identify the position of the spider on the shaft.
16. Remove the spider.
NOTE:
If necessary, use a commercially available bearing puller while being careful not to damage the spider.
17. Remove the inboard boot.
18. Wrap the splines on the driveshaft with vinyl tape to prevent damaging the inboard boot.
19. Install the new inboard boot onto the driveshaft, then remove the vinyl tape. Be careful not to damage the inboard boot.
20. Install the spider onto the driveshaft by aligning the marks you made on the spider and the end of the driveshaft.
21. Install a new circlip into the driveshaft groove. Always rotate the circlip in its groove to make sure it is fully seated.
22. Fit the rollers onto the spider as shown, and note these items.
^ Reinstall the rollers in their original positions on the spider by aligning the marks you made.
^ Hold the driveshaft with the spline pointed up to prevent the rollers from falling off.
23. Pack the inboard joint with joint grease included in the new inboard boot set.
24. Fit the inboard joint onto the driveshaft, and note these items.
^ Reinstall the inboard joint onto the driveshaft by aligning the marks you made on the inboard joint and the rollers.
^ Hold the driveshaft so the inboard joint is pointing up to prevent it from falling off.
25. Fit the boot ends onto the driveshaft and the inboard joint.
26. Adjust the length of the driveshaft to the specifications shown, then adjust the boots to halfway between full compression and full extension. Bleed excess air from the boots by inserting a flat-tipped screwdriver between the boot and the joint.
27. Install the new boot bands.
28. Fit the boot ends onto the driveshaft and the inboard joint, then install a new double loop band onto the boot.
NOTE:
Pass the end of the double loop band through the clip twice in the direction of the forward rotation of the driveshaft.
30. Mark a line on the band 10-14 mm (0.4-0.6 in) from the clip.
31. Thread the free end of the band through the nose section of the commercially available boot band tool (KD-3191 or equivalent), and into the slot on the winding mandrel.
32. Using a wrench on the winding mandrel of the boot band tool, tighten the band until the marked line on the band meets the edge of the clip.
33. Lift up the boot band tool to bend the free end of the band 90 degrees to the clip. Center-punch the clip, then fold over the remaining tail onto the clip.
34. Unwind the boot band tool, and cut off the excess free end of the band to leave a 5-10 mm (0.2-0.4 in) tail protruding from the clip.
35. Bend the band end by tapping it down using a hammer.
NOTE:
Make sure the band and the clip do not interfere with anything on the vehicle, and the band does not move. Clean any grease remaining on the surrounding surfaces.
36. Repeat steps 28 through 35 for the band on the other end of the boot.
37. Apply about 5 g (0.18 oz) of Moly 60 Paste to the contact area of the outboard joint and the front wheel bearing.
NOTE:
The paste helps prevent noise and vibration.
38. Install a new set ring into the set ring groove of the intermediate shaft.
39. Apply 0.5-1.0 g (0.02-0.04 oz) of Super High Temp Urea Grease to the whole splined surface of the right driveshaft. After applying grease, remove the grease from the splined grooves at intervals of 2-3 splines and from the set ring groove so that air can bleed from the intermediate shaft.
40. Clean the areas where the driveshaft contacts the intermediate shaft oil seal thoroughly with solvent, and dry them with compressed air.
NOTE:
Do not wash the rubber parts with solvent.
41. Insert the inboard end of the driveshaft onto the intermediate shaft until the set ring locks in the groove.
NOTE:
Insert the driveshaft horizontally to prevent damaging the oil seal.
42. Install the outboard joint into the front hub on the knuckle.
43. Wipe off any grease contamination from the ball joint tapered section and threads, then install the knuckle onto the lower arm. Make sure not to damage the ball joint boot. Wipe off the grease before tightening the nut at the ball joint.
44. Torque the castle nut to the lower torque specification 78-88 N.m (58-65 lb-ft), then tighten it only far enough to align the slot with the ball joint pin hole.
NOTE:
Make sure the ball joint boot is not damaged or cracked. Do not align the nut by loosening it.
45. Install a new cotter pin into the ball joint hole, and bend the cotter pin as shown.
46. Install the damper fork over the driveshaft and onto the lower arm. Install the damper in the damper fork so the aligning tab is aligned with the slot in the damper fork. Loosely install the damper pinch bolt.
47. Loosely install a new damper fork mounting bolt and a new damper fork mounting nut.
48. Connect the front stabilizer link to the lower arm, and loosely install a new flange nut. Hold the stabilizer link joint pin using a hex wrench, and tighten the flange nut to 39 N.m (29 lb-ft).
49. Place a floorjack under the lower arm, and raise the suspension to load it with the vehicle's weight.
NOTE:
Do not put the floor jack under the ball joint.
50. Tighten the damper pinch bolt to 49 N.m (36 lb-ft) and the damper fork mounting nut to 64 N.m (47 lb-ft) while holding the damper fork mounting bolt, then remove the floor jack.
51. Apply a small amount of engine oil to the seating surface of the new spindle nut.
52. Install the spindle nut, the tighten it to 329 N.m (242 lb-ft). After tightening, use a drift to stake the spindle nut shoulder against the driveshaft.
53. Clean the mating surfaces between the brake disc and the inside of the wheel, then install the front wheel. Torque the wheel nuts to 108 N.m (80 lb-ft).
54. Turn the wheel by hand, and make sure there is no interference between the driveshaft and surrounding parts.
55. Lower the vehicle.
56. Center-punch a completion mark above the fifth character of the engine compartment VIN:
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