Engine - Excessive Oil Consumption
12-069February 27, 2013
Applies To:
2012 Civic Si 2-Door - From VIN 2HGFG4A...H700001 thru 2HGFG4A...H703398 2012 Civic Si 4-Door - From VIN 2HGFB6E...H700001 thru 2HGFB6E...H703802
2012 Civic Si: Excessive Engine Oil Consumption
(Supersedes 12-069, Excessive Engine Oil Consumption, dated October 23, 2012, to revise the information marked by the black bars and asterisks)
*REVISION SUMMARY
^ The Title was changed.
^ Under SYMPTOM and CORRECTION ACTION, the information was changed.
^ POSSIBLE CAUSE was added.
^ Under REPAIR PROCEDURE, steps were added or changed.
SYMPTOM
The oil consumption is more than the customer expects; the engine oil level is low on the dipstick sooner than expected based on overall vehicle usage, condition, and maintenance history. In some cases, the oil warning light may come on.
POSSIBLE CAUSE
There are multiple possible contributors that may cause the customer to perceive a higher than expected oil consumption. Talk to the customer about the many factors that can influence oil consumption (see the Service Advisor" section of this service bulletin). If you do not see any other factors contributing to the oil consumption, consider engine-braking as a possible cause.
Engine-braking creates a high vacuum condition in the engine that may cause more oil to pass by the piston rings than expected. This condition may occur on vehicles with manual transmissions as drivers can downshift and decelerate with minimal or no throttle input. If a driver regularly downshifts to decelerate, especially at higher RPMs with no throttle input, such as driving down a long grade, or when coming to a stop, the customer may notice that oil is being consumed at a higher than expected rate.
CORRECTIVE ACTION
If you determine that engine braking is a possible cause, replace all the engine pistons and the piston rings.
Service Advisor:
Talk to the customer about the many factors that contribute to oil consumption, such as maintenance history, using the incorrect oil, driving under extreme conditions, or other factors that can contribute to oil consumption.
Remind the customer that its not uncommon that oil may need to be added between services. Modern engines and oils can go much longer between scheduled oil changes which makes it necessary to periodically check the engine oil level.
Recommend to your customer that it's a good idea to check the engine oil regularly (as recommended in the Owner's Manual) and add oil as needed.*
PARTS INFORMATION
Cylinder Head Gasket Kit: P/N 06110-R44-A00
Chain Case Gasket Kit: P/N 06114-R40-J01
Piston Set A: P/N 13010-RL5-A00
(Go to ORDERING PISTONS for more information about which piston set you need.)
Piston Set B: P/N 13020-RL5-A00
(Go to ORDERING PISTONS for more information about which piston set you need.)
Piston Ring Set (4 required): P/N 13011-RL5-A01
Connecting Rod Bolt (eight may be required):
P/N 13204-RBB-004
Intake Manifold Gasket (four required):
P/N 17115-R40-A01
Exhaust gasket: P/N 18229-TR7-A01
Bolt-Washer (11 x 76 head bolt) (ten may be required):
P/N 90005-RNA-A01
Flange Bolt (14x47): P/N 90160-SVB-A00
Flange Bolt (12x40)(two required):
P/N 95701-12040-07
0-Ring: P/N 91301-R40-A01
Primary Converter Gasket - P/N 1811 5-R40-A01
Flange Nut (14 mm): P/N 90371-SJD-003
REQUIRED MATERIALS
^ Hondabond HT Silicone
^ Genuine Honda Motor Oil 0W-20: P/N 08798-9036
^ Honda Long-Life Antifreeze/Coolant Type 2:
P/N 0L999-9011
^ Honda Genuine Power Steering Fluid:
P/N 08206-9002
TOOL INFORMATION
^ Camshaft Lock Pin Set: T/N 07AAB-RWCA120
^ Gasket Remover/Pan Separator: T/N L1L50190
^ Piston Ring Expander (Snap-On T/N PRS8 or equivalent)
^ Piston Ring Compressor (5CP1287 or equivalent)
^ 1/2 in. Drive Torque Angle Gauge (commercially-available)
^ Engine Hanger: P/N AAR-T1256
WARRANTY CLAIM INFORMATION
The normal warranty applies.
Operation Number: 111167
Flat Rate Time: 14.2 hours (includes 0.4 hr for alignment)
Failed Part: P/N 13010-RL5-A1O
Defect Code: 03217
Symptom Code: 09401
Skill Level: Repair Technician
REPAIR PROCEDURE
This procedure is an outline form that you can also use as a checklist for the repair. For details on the procedures noted, refer to the appropriate service manual, or view them online.
^ Engine Oil Replacement
^ Battery Terminal Disconnection and Reconnection
^ Fuel Pressure Relieving
^ Coolant Replacement
^ Drive Belt Removal/Installation
^ Intake Manifold Removal and Installation
^ Warm Up TWC Removal/Installation
^ Fuel Line/Quick-Connect Fitting Removal
^ Cylinder Head Removal
^ Cam Chain Removal
^ Rocker Arm Assembly Removal
^ Valve Adjustment
^ Oil Pan Installation
^ ECM Idle Learn Procedure
NOTE:
^ Before starting work, make sure to order the correct number of "A" and "B" pistons. Refer to ORDERING PISTONS in this bulletin.
^ Use fender covers to avoid damaging painted surfaces.
^ To avoid damaging the wires and terminals, unplug the wiring connectors carefully while holding the connector portion.
^ To avoid damaging the cylinder head, wait until the engine coolant temperature drops below 100°F (38°C) before loosening the cylinder head bolts. If needed, connect the HDS to the DLC, and monitor ECT SENSOR 1.
^ Mark all wiring and hoses to avoid misconnection. Also, be sure that they do not contact any other wiring or hoses, or interfere with any other parts.
1. Park the vehicle on a lift.
2. Relieve the fuel pressure.
3. Do the battery terminal disconnection procedure.
4. Drain the engine oil.
5. Drain the engine coolant.
6. Remove the drive belt.
7. Remove the intake manifold.
8. Remove the warm-up three-way catalytic converter (TWC).
9. Disconnect the brake booster vacuum and EVAP canister hoses.
10. Remove the quick-connect fitting cover, then disconnect the fuel feed hose.
11. Disconnect the four fuel injector connectors and the engine mount control solenoid connector, and disconnect the ground cables.
12. Remove the four bolts securing the EVAP canister purge valve bracket.
13. Disconnect the upper radiator hose and the heater hoses.
14. Remove the two bolts securing the connecting pipe.
15. Support engine with a floor jack, then remove right side engine mount.
16. Remove the front cam chain cover and the cam chain.
17. Remove the rocker arm assembly and both cams.
18. Remove the cylinder head bolts. To prevent warpage, loosen the bolts in sequence 1/3 turn at a time; repeat the sequence until all the bolts are loosened.
19. Remove the cylinder head.
20. Attach the engine hanger.
^ Attach the engine mount bracket to the engine block with two 10 mm spacers and two (10 mm diameter) bolts that are about 40 mm and 55 mm long.
^ Assemble the engine hanger.
^ Loop the wire cable around the engine mount bracket and attach the looped ends to the hook.
^ Raise the engine with a floor jack just enough to relieve the engine weight from the lower engine bracket. Tighten the hook so that when you lower the floor jack, the engine is suspended in place.
21. Raise the vehicle on the lift so that you can move the axle out of the way.
^ Remove the flange bolt and the flange nuts.
^ Disconnect the lower ball joint from the lower control arm.
^ Drive the inboard joint off of the intermediate shaft using a drift punch and a hammer, then move the shaft out of your way.
22. Remove the oil pan.
^ Remove the clutch case cover, and remove the two bolts securing the oil pan to the transmission.
^ Remove the lower torque rod mounting bolts.
^ Loosen the mid-stiffener mounting bolt on both sides.
^ Place a transmission jack under the right side of the subframe and remove the subframe bolts on the right side.
^ Loosen the subframe mounting bolts on the left side so that you can lower the subframe about 20 mm.
^ Remove the lower torque rod bracket.
^ Remove the clutch case cover and the transmission mounting bolts.
^ Remove the bolts securing the oil pan.
^ Raise the engine as high as possible using the engine hanger hook.
NOTE:
The engine wobbles as it is being lifted, so make sure nothing is stressed or damaged such as the A/C lines or pump.
^ Gently lower the right side of the subframe using the transmission jack until you have enough room to remove the oil pan.
^ Using the pan separator, separate the oil pan from the engine block in the indicated area, and remove the oil pan.
23. To hold the balancer shaft, insert a 6 mm (1/4 in.) diameter long pin punch into the maintenance hole in the balancer shaft holder and through the rear balancer shaft.
24. Remove the cam chain and the oil pump chain auto4ensioner.
25. Loosen the oil pump sprocket mounting bolt.
26. Remove the oil pump sprocket and the oil pump.
27. Remove the baffle plate.
28. Lower the vehicle to a comfortable working height, and place a clean shop towel around the cylinder wall to prevent debris from entering the coolant passage.
29. Rotate the crankshaft until piston No.1 is just before top dead center (TDC).
30. Check the cylinder walls by rubbing your fingernail or a lead pencil with light pressure perpendicular to any vertical scratches that are in the cylinder bore.
^ If your fingernail or pencil does not catch on the scratches, the cylinder block is OK. Go to step 32.
^ If your finger nail or pencil catches on the scratches, go to step 31 to continue checking the cylinder block.
31. Remove the piston from the scratched cylinder bore. Inspect the piston skirt for any scratches or damage that corresponds with the scratched cylinder bore.
^ If the piston skirt has deep scratches, or is damaged, and corresponds to the position of the bore scratches, replace the engine block. This bulletin no longer applies. You must obtain DPSM approval and refer online to Engine Removal and Installation to reinstall the engine.
^ If the piston skirt has no damage, the cylinder block is OK; go to step 32.
32. Remove the rod caps and the bearings.
NOTE:
^ Mark each rod cap and its corresponding rod with the cylinder number.
^ The existing markings refer to the size of the big end of the rod, not the number of the cylinder.
33. Use a wooden hammer handle to drive out each of the piston and connecting rod assemblies.
NOTE:
Be careful not to damage the cylinder walls or the crankshaft when pushing out the pistons and the connecting rod assemblies.
34. Visually inspect all the connecting rod bearings for signs of damage.
NOTE:
If your fingernail catches on a scratch or groove in the bearing, replace it. Pictured are normal reusable rod bearings after about 35,000 miles. Some discoloration is normal and does not require replacement.
35. Measure the diameter of each connecting rod bolt at points A and B.
36. Calculate the difference in diameter between points A and B:
^ Point A - Point B = Difference in Diameter
^ Difference in Diameter Specification:
^ - 0.1 mm (0.004 in.)
^ If the difference in diameter is out of specification, replace the connecting rod bolt.
37. Put on eye protection, then remove the snap rings (A) from both sides of each piston. Start at the cutout in the piston pin bore. Remove the snap rings carefully so they don't go flying or get lost.
38. Put on gloves, heat the piston and the ends connecting rod to about 158°F (70°C), then remove the piston pin.
NOTE:
The old piston, the pin, and the snap rings won't be reused.
39. Install a new piston pin snap ring on one side of a new piston.
40. Coat the piston pin bore in the piston, the bore in the connecting rod, and the piston pin with new engine oil.
41. Heat the piston to about 1 58°F (70°C).
42. Assemble the piston and the connecting rod with the arrow and the embossed mark on the same side. Install the piston pin.
NOTE:
When the piston and the rod end are heated properly, the piston pin should slide into position relatively easily. You will damage the piston if you try to use a hammer or a press to force the piston pin in.
43. Install the remaining snap ring.
44. Turn the snap ring in the ring grooves until the end gaps are positioned at the bottom of the piston.
45. Repeat steps 37-44 for the remaining pistons.
46. Using a piston ring expander, install the top ring and the second ring with the manufacturing marks facing up. The top ring has a "1" followed by a letter or letters. The second ring has a "2" followed by a letter or letters.
NOTE:
The new rings may not have the same manufacturing marks as the originals.
47. Rotate the rings in their grooves to make sure they do not bind.
48. Position the ring end gaps as shown.
49. Rotate the crankshaft so that cylinder's 1 and 4 are at bottom dead center (BDC).
50. Remove the connecting rod cap to piston 1, and check that the bearing is securely in place.
51. Apply new engine oil to the piston, the inside of the ring compressor, the cylinder bore, and the rod bearings.
52. Position the mark to face the cam chain end of the engine block.
53. Position the piston in the cylinder noting the rod/cap marks that you made in step 32, and set the piston in the ring compressor.
54. Set the ring compressor on the piston bore, then push the piston in with your hands.
55. Stop after the ring compressor pops free, and check the connecting rod-to-rod journal alignment before pushing the piston into place.
56. Apply new engine oil to the bolt threads, then install the connecting rod cap with the bearing. Torque the bolts to 41 N.m (30 lb-ft).
57. Tighten the connecting rod bolts an additional 120°.
NOTE:
If you tightened a rod bolt beyond the specified angle, remove it and repeat steps 56 and 57. Do not loosen the bolt back to the specified angle.
58. Repeat steps 50 thru 57 for piston number 4.
59. Rotate the crankshaft so that cylinder's 2 and 3 are at bottom dead center (BDC).
60. Repeat steps 50 thru 57 for piston number 2 and 3.
61. Rotate the crankshaft after all connecting rods have been installed to ensure that nothing is binding, and bring each piston to top dead center (TDC).
62. Install the baffle plate, and torque the bolts to 12 N.m (8.7 lb-ft).
63. Place the No.1 piston at top dead center (TDC). Make sure the TDC mark lines up with the pointer.
NOTE:
The other pointer is not used.
64. Align the dowel pin on the rear balancer shaft with the mark on the oil pump.
65. To hold the rear balancer shaft, insert the 6 mm (1/4 in.) diameter long pin punch into the maintenance hole in the balancer shaft holder and through the rear balancer shaft.
66. Turn the plate counterclockwise to release the lock, then push the oil pump chain auto-tensioner arm, and set the first cam to the first edge of the rack. Insert a 3.0 mm (7/64 in.) diameter pin into the hole.
NOTE:
If the chain tensioner is not set up as described, the tensioner will be damaged.
67. Apply new engine oil to the threads of the oil pump mounting bolts and the oil pump sprocket mounting bolt, then loosely install the oil pump with a new 0-ring.
68. Torque the oil pump mounting bolts and the oil pump sprocket mounting bolt to 44 N.m (33 lb-ft).
*69. Install the engine oil pump chain.
^ Set the crankshaft to top dead center (TDC). Align the TDC mark on the crankshaft sprocket with the pointer on the engine block.
^ Install the oil pump chain on the crankshaft sprocket with the colored link plate aligned with the TDC mark on the crankshaft sprocket.
^ Set the oil pump chain on the oil pump chain sprocket with the punch mark aligned with the center of the colored link plates, then install the oil pump chain sprocket to the oil pump.
^ Apply new engine oil to the threads of the oil pump sprocket mounting bolt, then install it and torque it to 44 N.m (33 lb-ft).
70. Install the oil pump chain auto-tensioner, and torque the bolts to 12 N.m (8.7 lb-ft).
71. Remove the 6 mm (1/4 in.) diameter long pin punch.*
72. Remove the 3.0 mm pin from the oil pump chain auto-tensioner.
73. Remove all of the old liquid gasket from the oil pan mating surfaces, the bolts, and the bolt holes.
74. Clean and dry the oil pan mating surfaces.
75. Apply liquid gasket, P/N 08717-0004, 08718-0003, or 08718-0009, to the engine block mating surface of the oil pan and to the inside edge of the threaded bolt holes. Install the component within 5 minutes of applying the liquid gasket.
NOTE:
^ Apply a 2.5 mm (0.098 in) diameter bead of liquid gasket along the broken line.
^ If more than 5 minutes have passed after applying the liquid gasket, remove the old liquid gasket and residue, then reapply new liquid gasket.
^ Do not apply any sealant where the cam chain case is installed because the sealant will dry before you can reinstall the case.*
76. Install the oil pan to the engine block.
77. Tighten the bolts in three steps. In the final step, torque all bolts, in sequence, to 12 N.m (9 lb-ft). Wipe off the excess liquid gasket on the each side of crankshaft pulley and the flywheel/drive plate.
NOTE:
^ Install the three bolts on the end after installing the cam chain cover.
^ Wait at least 30 minutes before filling the engine with oil.
^ Do not run the engine for at least 3 hours after installing the oil pan.
78. Install a new oil filter.
79. Reinstall the clutch case cover, and reinstall the two bolts securing the oil pan to the transmission.
*80. Reinstall the cylinder head.
^ Measure the diameter of each cylinder head bolt at point A and point B.
^ If either diameter is less than 10.8 mm (0.417 in), replace the cylinder head bolt.
^ Apply new engine oil to the threads and under the bolt heads of all cylinder head bolts.
^ Torque the cylinder head bolts in sequence to 39 N.m (20 lb-ft). Use a beam-type torque wrench. When using a preset click-type torque wrench, be sure to tighten slowly and do not overtighten. If a bolt makes any noise while you are torquing it, loosen the bolt and retighten it from the first step.
^ After torquing, tighten all cylinder head bolts in two steps (900 per step) using the sequence shown above. If you are using a new cylinder head bolt, tighten the bolt an extra 90°.
NOTE:
Remove the cylinder head bolt if you tightened it beyond the specified angle, and go back to the second bullet to remeasure the bolt. Do not loosen it back to the specified angle.
81. Reinstall the rocker arm assembly and cam shafts.
82. Reinstall the cam chain.
83. Apply liquid gasket to the oil pan where it meets the cam chain case and to the inside edge of the threaded bolt holes. Install the cam chain case within 5 minutes of applying the liquid gasket.*
84. Install the cam chain cover.
85. Reinstall the engine mount and torque the bolts to 44 N.m (33 lb-ft).
86. Remove the engine hanger.
87. Adjust the valves.
88. Reinstall the cylinder head cover.
89. Reinstall the connecting pipe.
90. Install the intake manifold.
91. Reinstall the upper radiator hose and the heater hoses.
92. Reinstall the EVAP canister purge valve bracket.
93. Reconnect the engine mount control solenoid connector, and the ground cables.
94. Reconnect the fuel feed hose, and reinstall the quick-connect fitting cover.
95. Reconnect the EVAP canister hose and the brake booster vacuum hose.
96. Reinstall the warm-up TWC.
97. Reinstall the drive belt.
98. Fill the engine with coolant.
99. Reinstall the strut brace (if equipped), and torque the bolts to 22 N.m (16 lb-ft).
100. Fill the engine with oil.
101. Do the battery terminal reconnection procedure.
*102. Crank the engine for about 5 seconds to prime the engine with oil pressure before plugging in the ignition coils.*
103. Reconnect the four fuel injector connectors.
*104. Do the idle learn procedure.*
ORDERING PISTONS
Every engine has some combination of A- and B-sized pistons. You can determine the sizes and their locations in the block by inspecting the markings on the timing chain end of the engine block or by looking at the pistons.
If you look at the piston, the pistons have identifiers "A" pistons are unmarked; "B" pistons are marked with a "B". Pistons can be ordered prior to engine disassembly.
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