No Sound Is Heard From the Speaker(s) (Display Is Normal) (With ELS Audio System)

Symptom Troubleshooting: No sound is heard from the speaker(s) (display is normal)

No sound is heard from the speaker(s) (display is normal) (with ELS audio system)

NOTE:

- Check the vehicle battery condition first. Testing and Inspection

- Check the connectors for poor connections or loose terminals.

- Set the fader and balance positions to the center.

- Before doing the troubleshooting, do the Audio unit power switch will not turn on troubleshooting. Audio Unit Power Switch Will Not Turn On (No Information Display and No Sound)

1. Turn the ignition switch to ON (II).

2. Turn on the audio unit, and make sure the volume button is not set to the MIN level.

Is it at the MIN level?
YES - Raise the volume level, and recheck the function.

NO - Go to step 3.


3. Turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0).

4. Disconnect the HandsFreeLink control unit 28P connector and navigation unit connector B (32P).

5. Turn the ignition switch to ON (II), and recheck the audio system for sound.

Did the sound return?
YES - Reconnect the HandsFreeLink control unit and the navigation unit one at a time, and note which one causes the sound to go away. Replace that unit.

NO - Go to step 6.


6. See if the problem recurs with the tuner and more than one CD.

Does the problem recur using the tuner as well as CDs?
YES - Go to step 7.

NO - Go to Poor AM or FM radio reception or interference troubleshooting. Symptom Troubleshooting


7. Do the speaker check mode with the self-diagnostic function How to Troubleshoot the Audio System.

Do all speakers produce a tone?
YES - System is OK at this time. Check for poor connections at the audio unit, the speakers, and the stereo amplifier.

NO - Go to step 8.


8. Turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0).

9. Check the No. 15 (20 A) fuse in the passenger's under-dash fuse/relay box, the No. 15 (10 A) fuse in the under-hood fuse/relay box, and the No. 18 (7.5 A) fuse in the driver's under-dash fuse/relay box.

Are the fuses OK?
YES - Go to step 10.

NO - Replace the fuse(s), and recheck.


10. Check the faulty speaker(s) for damage.

Is there any damage?
YES - Replace the speaker, and recheck.

NO - Go to step 11.


11. Remove the speaker(s) with no sound, Speaker Test/Replacement and disconnect its connector.

12. Check the speaker 2P connector for a loose or poor connection.

Reconnect the speaker connector, and recheck the symptom; is the condition still present?
YES - Go to step 13.

NO - Intermittent failure. Operation is normal.


13. Test the speaker(s) Speaker Test/Replacement.

Is the speaker OK?
YES - Go to step 14.

NO - Replace the speaker(s).


14. Reconnect the speaker connector(s).

15. Disconnect stereo amplifier connector A (18P).

16. Check for continuity between body ground and stereo amplifier connector A (18P) according to the table.





Is there continuity?
YES - Repair a short to body ground in the wire(s) between the stereo amplifier and the speaker(s).

NO - Go to step 17.






17. Disconnect the driver's door tweeter 2P connector and the front passenger's door tweeter 2P connector.

18. Measure the resistance between each pair of speaker terminals at stereo amplifier connector A (18P) according to the table.





Is the resistance OK?
YES - Go to step 19.

NO - Repair an open or short in the wire between the stereo amplifier and the speaker(s).






19. Connect stereo amplifier connector A (18P) terminals with jumper wires as shown.






20. Check for continuity between the tweeter 2P connector according to the table.





Is there continuity?
YES - Go to step 21.

NO - Repair an open in the wire between the stereo amplifier and the tweeter.






21. Disconnect jumper wires.

22. Disconnect stereo amplifier connector B (28P).

23. Disconnect audio unit connector C (12P).

24. Check for continuity between body ground and audio unit connector C (12P) terminals No. 1 and No. 2 individually.

Is there continuity?
YES - There is a short to body ground in the wire(s) between the audio unit and the stereo amplifier. Replace the affected shielded harness.

NO - Go to step 25.






25. Check for continuity between the terminals of audio unit connector C (12P) according to the table.





Is there continuity between any of the terminals?
YES - There is a short in the wires between the audio unit and the stereo amplifier. Replace the affected shielded harness.

NO - Go to step 26.






26. Check for continuity between audio unit connector C (12P) and stereo amplifier connector B (28P) according to the table.





Is there continuity?
YES - Go to step 27.

NO - There is an open in the wire(s) between the audio unit and the stereo amplifier. Replace the affected shielded harness.






27. Disconnect audio unit connector A (24P).
NOTE: Eject all the discs before disconnecting the audio unit and the audio disc changer to prevent damaging the CD/DVD player's load mechanism.

28. Disconnect audio unit connector D (8P).

29. Check for continuity between stereo amplifier connector B (28P) and body ground according to the table.





Is there continuity?
YES - There is a short to body ground in the wire(s) between the stereo amplifier and the audio unit. Replace the affected shielded harness.

NO - Go to step 30.






30. Check for continuity between audio unit connector A (24P), connector D (8P), and stereo amplifier connector B (28P) according to the table.





Is there continuity?
YES - Go to step 31.

NO - There is an open in the wire(s) between the stereo amplifier and the audio unit. Replace the affected shielded harness.






31. Measure the voltage between stereo amplifier connector A (18P) terminal No. 18 and body ground.

Is there battery voltage?
YES - Go to step 32.

NO - Repair an open in the wire between the No. 15 (20 A) fuse in the passenger's under-dash fuse/relay box and stereo amplifier connector A (18P) terminal No. 18.






32. Reconnect audio unit connector A (24P).

33. Turn the ignition switch to ON (II).

34. Measure the voltage between stereo amplifier connector B (28P) terminal No. 3 and body ground.

Is there battery voltage?
YES - Go to step 35.

NO - Repair an open in the wire between stereo amplifier connector B (28P) terminal No. 3 and audio unit connector A (24P) terminal No. 17. If the wire and pin fits are OK, substitute a known-good audio unit Audio Unit Removal/Installation (With AcuraLink) and recheck. If the symptom/indication goes away, replace the original audio unit.






35. Turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0).

36. Reconnect stereo amplifier connector A (18P) and connector B (28P).

37. Turn the ignition switch to ON (II).

38. Measure the voltage between body ground and stereo amplifier connector A (18P) terminal No. 9 and connector B (24P) terminal No. 2 individually.

Is there less than 0.2 V?
YES - Substitute a known-good audio unit, Audio Unit Removal/Installation (With AcuraLink) and recheck. If the symptom/indication goes away, replace the original audio unit. Audio Unit Removal/Installation (With AcuraLink) If the symptom is still present, substitute a known-good stereo amplifier, Service and Repair and recheck. If the symptom/indication goes away, replace the original stereo amplifier. Service and Repair

NO - Repair an open or high resistance in the wire between stereo amplifier connector A (18P) terminal No 9 or connector B (28P) terminal No. 2 and body ground (G651) or (G401).